This restaurant's reputation as a prime steak place is deserved, but too limiting. The kitchen's ways with seafood, veal, fowl and even pasta are winners, too, and who can fault an appetizer list that includes shrimp cocktail, escargot and steak tartare proudly prepared with old-world pomp at tableside? Fresh sea scallops sauteed and sauced with a kiss of Dijon mustard and a whisper of lemon and capers struck an exquisite balance. Rack of lamb's rosy chops were fork tender and appropriately sided with a tomato rose and vegetables cared in the presentation-conscious French fashion. Seduced by ceremony, we decided to forgo dessert souffles to share bananas Foster, not on the menu, but lovingly prepared, flamed and served by our waiter as we watched. Cherries jubilee are another unlisted indulgence; we'll save those for the restaurant's upcoming 50th anniversary. And for the 60th? Who knows? Vive les classiques!

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