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This
restaurant's reputation as a prime steak place is deserved, but too
limiting. The kitchen's ways with seafood, veal, fowl and even pasta
are winners, too, and who can fault an appetizer list that includes
shrimp cocktail, escargot and steak tartare proudly prepared with
old-world pomp at tableside? Fresh sea scallops sauteed and sauced
with a kiss of Dijon mustard and a whisper of lemon and capers struck
an exquisite balance. Rack of lamb's rosy chops were fork tender and
appropriately sided with a tomato rose and vegetables cared in the
presentation-conscious French fashion. Seduced by ceremony, we decided
to forgo dessert souffles to share bananas Foster, not on the menu,
but lovingly prepared, flamed and served by our waiter as we watched.
Cherries jubilee are another unlisted indulgence; we'll save those
for the restaurant's upcoming 50th anniversary. And for the 60th?
Who knows? Vive les classiques! |
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